Laughter and Liberation in Nagarkot – Kathmandu Valley (Part 2)

I arrived in the hill town of Nagarkot, only about 30kms from Kathmandu, yet a two hour drive, and a world away. To be higher up in the mountains, breathe clean air and have panoramic views of the snow capped Himalayan range, made me sigh with relief.

Nagarkot is filled with hotels of varying quality, most with names relating to “sunrise”, “sunset”, “view” or “Himalaya”, little villages, terraced farms and super kind and friendly Nepali people. As soon as I arrived at my lovely accommodation, called Peaceful Cottage, I rearranged my daypack and set off wandering, in the early afternoon. Basically feeling lost and confused the moment I started, I arrived at a simple map of the town, only to find another fellow traveller trying to figure out her bearings too. Canadian Kate, a fun loving, beautiful soul with a fantastic sense of humor and wonderful heart, is currently working in Kathmandu. She was in much need of getting out of the city for the weekend. We hiked, we explored, we chatted endlessly and we laughed non stop for two days.

After doing the entire nature walk/hike, we then continued to a well known sunset point. Along the way we met Doug, an American man, who had been in Kathmandu on a work trip and also decided to get out of the city. The three of us had a great time, appreciating the sunset, with the constantly changing color and light reflecting off the snow capped Mountains, taking hilarious photos and just having a good laugh. We had found a great spot on the hill, with great views, while so many other spots were crowded with people, playing music. A few days later I went passed there on my own, to see most it had been barb wired by the neighboring military camp. I have a feeling there may have been a reason no one else was in that spot

We walked down the hill as it got dark and then joined Doug for a drink at his hotel, we then decided to tuck into the hotel buffet for dinner. Having great conversations over dinner. Finally, feeling fat and full, Kate and I half rolled down the hill, back to our hotels around 9pm (both grateful we had company at that hour). On our way we bumped into a British guy, Matt, wandering around with a beer in his hand, asking us if we knew where the party was at. Matt proceeded to walk with us telling us the most hilarious story of his evening discovering a 4 person jam-session (he soon realized it was in someone’s home/bedroom). Four local guys playing drums and guitars, singing away. Matt explained how awkward it was when he told them he couldn’t sing or play an instrument, so he just stood there, beer in hand swaying to the music , as he thought he had better contribute something to the session. Kate and I were in tears and stitches laughing. I don’t think I’m doing the story justice, but take my word for it, it was hilarious. We then all decided we would share a taxi the following day to go and catch the sunrise. Matt told us how most of his two week trip with his Mum was like this, finding people and just deciding on things do the night before… then getting back to the hotel to tell his Mum she had to get up early for some crazy adventure.

So we were all up and ready at 5:30am, meeting the inspiring Margaret, Matt’s Mum, who is game for anything. This 70 year old woman has trekked Iceland, Burma, the Great Wall of China and many other countries, all for charity, and supports a school and charity in Zambia. We arrived at the viewpoint to discover a number of people already there, taking photos and absorbing the incredible sunrise creating glorious colors on the Himalayan range. After sunrise and breakfast the four of us did the 5km nature trail. Margaret’s stamina and positive mental attitude on the trek was truly inspiring. Even while struggling up a hill or some stairs, she would stop for a break and make a comment on her admiration for some wild flowers or gorgeous tall trees. A great perspective, I thought.

Throughout the day, whether it at breakfast, or along our walks, a local cat and many dogs kept coming up to me, playfully and excitedly greeting me, often with a nudge. I found it very complimentary that Matt called me “Dr Dolittle”.  Finishing off our time together, with a delicious lunch and many wonderful conversations I gave Kate, Matt and Margaret all a big hug as they all headed back to Kathmandu. My heart was full, being in nature with amazing people, really was such a gift.

The following day I decided to go for a run, and then a hike. That morning I realized that the banging sound from construction could not be escaped anywhere in the Kathmandu valley. Whether it is new buildings being constructed, or buildings still being restored after the devastation on the horrendous 2015 earthquake. Life had to go on, so I needed to spend time away from the town. I haven’t run in about 3 months, due to a sciatica injury, but also not having anywhere on my travels to be able to run. It only ended up being a 4km run, but it was amazing. To get my heart rate up again and feeling the fresh air. And I felt confident; usually I get nervous on a run if I don’t know where I am going. Here, I just kept going, taking wrong turns, ending up going through lots of bushes, black jacks and villages. I surprised myself.

After breakfast, I started the hike with two friendly dogs wagging their tails, following me for a while, feeling more like the Pied-Piper than Dr Dolittle. It was blissful! Along the panoramic trail, I started listening to an upbeat version of the Sanskrit chant “Lokah Samastah Sukhino Bhavantu” (may all beings everywhere be happy and free). I found myself singing along and playfully skipping down the mountain path. I thought, when did I last feel so free? When did I genuinely feel this happy and peaceful within, for an extended period of time?

Taking in the sights and smells of the misty morning, thinking about my journey so far. The past 6-7 years have been a rollercoaster for me, mental and physical health issues, euphoria, disappointment, confusion, allowing myself to just be taken along, rather than being fully present. The first part of 2019 really took the wind out of my sails, I allowed events and people to crush my ego (a good thing), but also to shatter my soul and break my heart. I have also been exceptionally hard on myself and others. Yet, 2019 has also been a year of major awakening for me. Realizing the boundaries I need to set for myself and that I don’t need the acceptance or conditional love that I have been desperately trying to receive. I have had the most incredible healers and teachers over the past 6 months. Guiding me along my journey of spiritual, mental and physical health. From Therapists to Reiki, to Yoga, Pilates, Mindfulness, Meditation, Kinesiology, Tremouring (TRE), Physio, Red-Tent ceremonies and Sacred Feminine Alchemy, and the travel experience I have dreamed of for life times. I have had such incredible support from my amazing husband and friends, I have rediscovered my true tribes. I have spent a lot of time acquiring knowledge, knowing rather than experiencing and feeling what things benefit me. I feel like that day I embodied some of the knowledge, truly experiencing and feeling all the healing that has built up recently. Turning knowledge into wisdom. I felt free, I felt happy, I felt present and I felt grateful.

So I skipped and sang a little more…

As I continued to walk round the Nagarkot hill, I realised I was doing it clockwise, like a Kora for nature. A great dedication to Mother Nature and good Karma. I also noticed that despite doing a whole 10km “panoramic trail”, the mist didn’t lift, the mountains didn’t show. So instead of focusing on the lack of distant beauty of the Himalayan range, I noticed the beauty right in front of me; of the green rice paddies, the bits of sunlight shining on fields of orange marigolds, the goats and kids happily jumping around. Sometimes you have to walk a long time in the mist, and appreciate the things that are right in front of you, before you can see and appreciate the views of the mountains.

I ended my hike feeling so much lighter, calmer. My time in Nagarkot has been filled with amazing human connections, fits of laughter, beautiful scenery (nearby and afar), and a massive sense of freedom and relief.

Arriving at my new favorite restaurant, the Sherpa Alpine Cottage, where I had delightfully discovered giant pots of milk tea the previous day. The owner greeted me like a long lost friend. “Namaste”, he said “good to see you again! Big pot of milk tea?” . And I smiled and nodded, palms at my Heart centre, truly grateful for this feeling of bliss within, which I honestly have often thought I may never find. Long may it last….